Stefano Pilati’s first womenswear collection after parting ways with Yves Saint Laurent in February 2012, showed his gift as one of our generation’s great designers. Revamping Ermenegildo Zegna’s semi-dormant Agnona line, Pilati presented a collection, named Collezione Zero, that is designed to transcend the temporality of seasons.
Traditionally featuring high-end women’s ready-to-wear, Pilati’s first Agnona range features heavy wool coats and light summery dresses, a criss cross between Spring-Summer and Autumn-Winter. The thick sweaters and belted jackets are stately, sturdy-looking, and was built to last. It seems that he made clothes for women who hopes to wear the clothes for years to come.
Pilati drew inspiration from Agnona’s archives dating back to 1953 to create classic pieces like belted coats, floral dresses, two-piece suits, and he even had an array of all-black staples. He went to design both billowy and structured silhouettes and used a wide spectrum of palette covering neutrals and vibrant shades.
Avoiding the fuss and the ornamental fashion crowd chatter, Pilati created a static presentation, with his clothes exhibited on mannequins instead of models, and it was made open to the public in Milan. It’s definitely a break from the traditional way to debut a branding overhaul, but Pilati seems eager to avoid stealing the attention from what matters most – the clothes. He even skipped its opening, and has declined to speak to the press about his new work.
The future of the Agnona remains unclear — In the future, Pilati can either choose to follow a fashion schedule, or continue with its initial approach of going beyond the prescribed seasons. Perhaps it’s this flexibility that makes Pilati inspired nowadays.